Birth of a surfer

Buying a Surfboard and wetsuit, finding a decent spot, finding out when the waves are actually ridable, learning how to paddle, how to stand up and finally how to ride a wave is already hard nowadays. Back in 1993 it felt nearly impossible for somebody who was not living closed to the ocean. My friends and me spend hours, days and weeks driving, reading, searching, paddling, asking before we rode our first wave.

But once I felt the sensation of gliding on water, getting accellerated by the force of the ocean, looking down the fastly changing wall of water nearly collapsing over your head all the failed efforts and painful experience were forgotten. I think very few moments changed the priorties in a life of a surfer more than that first real wave ride. From that moment on surfer relentlessly chase the sensation of gliding on water and organize there lives around it.

back